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Byzantium, Constantinople, Istanbul -the City that ‘with One Key Opens and
Cioses Two Worlds, Two Seas...
Istanbul is one of the world’s great cities. Its unique setting, at the point
where Europe faces Asia across the turquoise ribbon of the Bosphorus, makes it
the only city in the world to bridge two continents. Here, where the waters of
the Black Sea blend into the Aegean, east and west merge and mingle in the
cultural melting-pot of Turkey’s largest metropolis.
Istanbul is the only city in the world that has been the capital of both an
Islamic and a Christian empire. As Constantinople, jewel of the Byzantine
Empire, it was for over 1 .000 years the most important city in Christendom. As
Istanbul it was the seat of the Ottoman sultans, rulers of a 500 year Islamic
empire that stretched from the Black Sea and the Balkans to Arabia and Algeria.
It owes its historic importance to its strategic location on the Bosphorus. From
here the city could control not onyy the shipping that passed through the strait
on the important trade route between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, but
also the overland traffic from Europe into Asia Minor, which used the narrow
strait as a crossing point. In the words of the l6th- century French traveller
Pierre Gilles, ‘The Bosphorus with one key opens and closes two worlds, two
seas’. That strategic advantage is no less important today than it was 2,500
years ago, when a band of Greeks first founded the city of Byzantium on this
very spot. Ankara may be the official capital of modern Turkey, but Istanbul is
the country’s largest city and busiest port, producing over one-third of
Turkey’s manufacturing output. The Bosphorus is one of the world’s busiest
shipping lanes, and the overland traffic is now carried by two of the world’s
longest suspension bridges.
The city has long since spread beyond the 5th-century Byzantine walls built by
Emperor Theodosius II, and now sprawls for miles along the shores of the Sea of
Marmara on both the European and Asian sides. Back in 1507 this was the world’s
largest city, with a population of 1.2 million. That figure has now passed 13
million and is still growing, swollen by a steady influx of people from rural
areas looking for work (more than half of the population was born in the
provinces). These new arrivals created a series of shantytowns around the edge
of the city. Their makeshift homes, known in Turkish as gecekondu (‘built by
night’), take advantage of an old Ottoman law that protects a house whose roof
has been built during the hours of darkness. The slums are eventually knocked
down to make way for new tower blocks - a new suburb is created, a new
shantytown springs up beyond it, and Istanbul sprawls a little further.
At the other end of the social spectrum are the wealthy "Istanbullus" who live
in the upmarket districts of Taksim, Harbiye and Nisantasi, where chunky gold
jewellery, Gucci shoes and BMWs are de rigueur, and the streets are lined with
expensive apartments, fashion boutiques and stylish cafés. These are the lucky
few who frequent the city’s expensive restaurants and clubs, and retire at the
weekends to their restored wooden mansions (yalý) along the Bosphorus. But the
majority of Istanbul’s inhabitants fall between these extremes, living in modest
flats and earning an average wage in the offices, shops, banks and factories
that provide most of the city’ s employment.
Just as the Bosphorus separates Asia from Europe, so the inlet called the Golden
Horn separates the old Istanbul from the new. The historic heart of the city
lies on a small peninsula on the south side of the Golden Horn, known as Saray
Burnu, or Seraglio Point. This easily defensible thumb of land is bounded on
three sides by the so-called ‘Three Seas’ — the Sea of Marmara to the south, the
Bosphorus to the east and the Golden Horn to the north — and on the fourth by
the 5th-century Theodosian Walls. Across its seven hills spreads the Old City,
also known as Stamboul or Eski Istanbul, home to the city’s richest historic
treasures Hagia Sophia, Topkapý Palace, the Blue Mosque, the Covered Bazaar, the
Süleymaniye Mosque and the Church of St Saviour in Chora.
The Galata Bridge spans the mouth of the Golden Horn, linking Old Istanbul to
the ‘New City’ of Beyoðlu. Here you will find the 14th-century Galata Tower, the
stylish shops, cafés and hotels of Istiklal Caddesi and Taksim Square, and the
sumptuous splendour of Dolmabahce Palace.
Ferries cross the Bosphorus to Üsküdar and ply the length of the scenic strait,
past the pretty fishing villages of Arnavutköy, Kanlýca, Emirgan and Tarabya,
and the imposing fortress of Rumeli Hisarý. And to the south, in the Sea of
Marmara, lie the woods and beaches of the Princes’ Islands.
The OId City
Istanbul’s most popular tourist attractions are concentrated in the Sultanahmet
district, near the tip of the Saray Burnu peninsula, and are all within easy
walking distance of each other. A tram line runs from Kabatas, near the
Dolmabahce Palace, through Sultanahmet, past the Grand Bazaar, the hotels of
Laleli and Aksaray...
Sultanahmet
The Sultanahmet district occupies the summit of the first of the Old City’s
seven hills. This was the site of the original Byzantium, founded in the 7th
centuýy BC, and of the civic centre of Constantinople, capital of the Byzantine
Empire. Here, too, the conquering Ottoman sultans chose to build their most
magnificent palaces and mosques. Little now remains of the Byzantine city, but
what does is one of the most remarkable buildings ever constructed — Hagia
Sophia.
Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya)
Magnificent church of Hagia Sophia was for over 1,000 years the most imýportant
church in Christendom, and a lasting syýnbol of the might and wealth of the
Byzantine Empire.
For nearly 1,000 years, the Church of Hagia Sophia was the greatest church in
Christendom, an architectural wonder designed to impress upon the world the
might of the Byzantine Empire.
A Christian basilica is thought to have been built here by the Emperor
Constantine in AD 325, on the site of a pagan temple. It was destroyed by fire
in 404, and rebuilt by Theodosius II, then burnt down again in 532. The building
you see today was commissioned by Justinian and cornpleted in 537, though many
repairs, additions and alterations have been made over the centuries. The dome
has been damaged by earthquakes several times, and the supporting buttresses
have coarsened the outward appearance of the church.
The fýnest materials were used in its construction — white marble frorn the
islands of the Marmara, yellow marble from Africa, verd-antique from Thessaly,
gold and silver from Ephesus, and ancient red porphyry
columns which possibly carne frorn Egypt, and may once have stood in the Temple
of the Sun at Baalbek. The interior was covered with glowing golden mosaics, lit
by countless flickering candelabras.